Huay Xai - Luang Nam Tha - Nong Khiao - Luang Prabang -Vietianne - Thakek - Savannaket -Pakse
... I crossed the Thailand and Laos border by ferry from Chang Khong to Hauy Xai late in the afternoon. I converted some forex and had a celebratory lunch at Nazim’s. Yes! There is Indian food in Laos. That did me a world of good in getting my digestive system and overall health back on track. Later, twice that afternoon I was even offered food for my Spirit. Weed, Opium and any other novelty drug to take you higher. Laos certainly was different from Thailand. Much can be said, but it is more of an experience. The video and photographs do it little justice ...
... from the time we departed from Huay Xai and battled our way up, down and around the numerous hills and mountains it has been all good, though at times challenging and bone rattling on some of the pothole infested roads. The weather had been cloudy with scattered rain and drizzle for the better part of my journey through Laos. But the mountain hugging mist was mystical, constantly altering the scenery. There one minute and gone the next. The Mekong, Nam Ou and other rivers are a source of entertainment and livelihood for the locals, as are the mountains. There are many outdoor activities such as hiking, rafting, tubing, etc.. But best of all, there ae no crocodiles in the rivers. Not that I mind ...
... the tropical rainforest ... unfortunately for all it's appeal; medicinal and tourist value and the fact that it provides abundant healthy air, is disappearing fast, just like in other developing countries. Families and farmers are migrating from subsistence farming to commercial farming, and the land is suffering as a result. Vast tracts of land are cut down indescriminately and replaced with commercial crops. I have been informed that this process is carried out in 20 year cycles, so the rainforest is permitted to rejuvenate itself again. I'm not so sure about that. I cannot verify the truth of any of the information. My advice is to pack your bags and visit this beautiful country while it still possesses some appeal and plastic litter hasn't bligted the Laos mountainside ...
... from Luang Nam Tha I caught a local bus and a minivan to Nong Khiao. A Canadian couple I met in Chiang Mai rcommended the place to me, even though they hadn't been there themselves. Some other backpacker had recommended the place to them and they were spreading the word. Nong Khiao is a secluded little village with one road passing through, and the Nam Ou River meandering through it. Surrounding the village are towering mountains, just like in some fairy tales. We were fortunate to have whisps of mist float by. The scenery is enchanting and one has difficulty deciding when to stop taking photographs. The atmosphere is very relaxed. There were other tourists about but not in droves like most other places. I was advised to take the longtail boat up to and even smaller and more secluded village upstream called Moung Noi. The view must have been fabulous but I saved the cash for a boat trip down stream to Luang Prabang instead. The boat trip down stream cost double the bus fare but it was worth it and a lot more comfortable ...
... when we arrived in Luang Prabang backpackers from the two-day boat ride from Huay Xai were disembarking. A lot of them looked grumpy, lethargic and as if they were involuntary participants in a mosquito buffet. I was glad I travelled overland up to Luang Nam Tha. Luang Prabang is a quaint little town with lots of character and friendly people. It was developed and colonised by the French some years back. Of course that meant you have to drive on the wrong side of the road when in Laos. Every evening the town takes on a New Orleans feel with the main road being taken over by the local crafts people who spread their wares for tourist to see and possibly purchase. There is usually very little coercing or badgering, rather more smiles and a warm greeting. Look. Buy if you like. The silk products were very beautiful and I was tempted to purchase a scarf or two but my backpack is bursting at the seams already ...
... the baguette sandwiches here are also some of the best and cheapest you'll get in all of South-East Asia. My stomach couldn't get enough of them. That and the Indian food. There are also two beautiful waterfalls one can visit. Due to time and weather constraints I had to miss seeing them and got post cards instead. I chose to skip Vang Vieng because I was told it is primarily a party place for foreigners. I could always do that at home with my friends. On the bus trip to Vientianne we were delayed by an hour due a landslide. Apparently this happens often during the rainy season. Roads even become unpassable due to flooding and are sometimes even washed away. anyone planning on visiting Laos during the wet season in the future should keep this in mind and allow for delays. Vientianne, the capital is worth a stop, but just for a day. In the south of the country I did not do much. Got a good and cheap haircut in Thakek and wandered the streets aimlessly. But that was about it ...
... Pakse is a good base from which one can rent a motorbike and visit the numerous watefalls, villages and ride about the Bolavan Plateau. You don't really notice that you're going up onto the plateau except for a bit of a nip in the air at the higher altitude. From Pakse I even made it to Champasak and Wat Phou, another famous ancient temple. Worth a visit if just for the panoramic view of the area. after Pakse I was left with 92,000 Kip to get to Nakasang, take the ferry across to Don Det island, stay overnight, cross the ferry back to Nakasang the next day and head for the Laos/ Cambodian Border. It was a very tight stretch but I made it with nothing to spare, even though I got to Cambodia a bit hungry ...
... in a way Laos reminded me a lot of parts of Africa :
lots of lush, virgin, indigenous vegetation;
little villages still using traditional methods of construction and farming, foraging and living from day to day;
the rivers and land being the primary source of survival;
honesty and integrity being more important than a wad of ill-gotten cash;
children just being children and playing together to their hearts content, come rain or shine;
people sharing, caring and uplifting one another;
animals, domestic and agricultural, wandering about aimlessly; etc., etc..
... I'm in Angkor Wat, Cambodia at present with Vietnam next on the itinerary. Anyone interested in joining me, especially for the China, Nepal and India leg of the journey is more than welcome. Bring along your backpacking equipment and a smile. Leave behind all expectations ... Till next time take care and take it easy ...